Havana, Rum and Cigars

Havana, rum and cigars! I am having so much fun reliving the trip I took to Cuba in summer of 2019. Revisiting Havana and my photos from my 1000’s of shots makes me want to go back sooner rather than later. I’ve been sharing stories about my adventures in Cuba, starting with this post about the #1 Chef of Cuba.  To reach him one must take a taxi about half an hour out of Havana to San Jose de las Lajas.  Today I will be focusing on Havana, rum and cigars, along with a few other highlights of this trip.

Fabrica de Arte in Havana should not be missed.

I touched on Trinidad in this post. Trinidad is smaller than Havana and those brightly colored buildings are so beautiful it is hard not to love it.  I showed you a variety of photos from my interest in doors in this post, showcasing all the areas I visited.  Havana, Vinales and Trinidad.

Now Havana! Havana is the capital city, largest city, province, major port, and leading commercial center of Cuba. The city is the center of the Cuban government and home to various ministries, headquarters of businesses and over 90 diplomatic offices.  Havana attracts over 1million visitors every year.

I was not 100% certain that arriving at the airport Jose Marti would prove easy but it was so easy.  I even used the automated money exchange there to snag a few CUC’s to tip my driver who would take me into the city itself.   Upon arriving at my apartment I was greeted by a lovely woman who was the host.  As is standard she asked for my passport and recorded the info.  This happened at each casa I stayed in throughout the country.  Air conditioning is not common in Cuba but the sleeping quarters are always outfitted with air which makes for comfortable sleeping.  The apartment had a lovely balcony for people watching and a large beautiful patio off of the kitchen for meals or just relaxing.  It felt like a home away from home the minute I stepped inside.

Patio of the Havana apartment

Kitchen Havana apartment

The kitchen is always important to me and this one was big with beautiful light coming in through the louvered windows.  Below are shots of the view cross the street and on the street where there was always something interesting going on.  Music, kids playing ball, groups of people catching up, men pushing carts of vegetables for sale, a bread delivery service dude who blew a very loud whistle and handed the bread to his customers through the barred windows and collected his money the same way.

View from Havana apartment

Vegetables for sale – Havana

We all know the vintage American cars in Havana are a thing.  They really are a “huge” thing.  Colorful, old cars from the 50’s or earlier that still run and shuttle tourists from place to place.  I rode in several while there, some convertibles others not.  Hailing one of these is easy as they are everywhere.  I didn’t drive this one but it would’ve been fun to do so.

Vintage car Havana

Vintage cars Havana – which is your favorite?

Besides the cars, the architecture in Havana is captivating, eclectic with a mix of African, Spanish, North American and French influences.  In Havana Vieja (old Havana) you see the strong, sturdy limestone baroque facades, streamlined art deco in Vedado, and intricate decoration on the mansions of Miramar, the wealthy diplomatic quarter.  A city with 500 years of history and over 2 million people.

Old Town Havana – Havana Vieja

Vedado – Havana

Miramar – Havana

Havana Vieja or “Old Havana” is a myriad of narrow streets, lively neighborhoods, courtyards, forts,  museums, plazas and cathedrals.  I visited the Museum of the Revolution, housed in a beautiful building with an overload of information on the revolution.  It was fascinating and I noted how the revolutionaries weren’t only men but women too, all attractive in a rebel way and committed to their cause.  At Plaza Vieja you’ll find a large plaza encircled by pastel colonial style buildings, with archways and columns all around.  The Hotel Kempinski offers gorgeous views of Havana Vieja and particularly the Gran Teatro de la Habana.

Plaza Vieja

Sunset from the Hotel Kempinski

I found out about the views from the Kempinski while on my first tour of Havana. Led by Robin Havana’s Best Rooftop Views in a Convertible Car+Drinks is a great way to see Havana from rooftops while enjoying a cocktail. Choosing rum is a good choice while in Cuba.  I liked Havana Club, a brand of rum created in Cuba in 1934. Originally produced in Cárdenas, Cuba by family-owned Jose Arechabala S.A., the brand was nationalized after the Cuban Revolution of 1959.  Robin is professional, energetic and freely talks about Cuba and what his life is in this beautiful country.

Gran Teatro de la Habana

The practice of Santeria intrigued my ever curious mind and one day I took a CoCo Taxi to watch a Santeria celebration.  If you aren’t familiar with Santeria the dictionary defines it as:  a pantheistic Afro-Cuban religious cult developed from the beliefs and customs of the Yoruba people and incorporating some elements of the Catholic religion. Because Santería lacks scriptures, the whole faith is passed down orally. This is why ceremonies and rites are so important.  Emerging in Cuba during the 17th century and embedded in Cuban society ever since, Santeria is practiced throughout Cuba.  Participating in the celebration were children and men and women of all ages.  It was obvious that this festival was for tourists to discover a bit of Santeria, but it was a lot of fun!  If only I could learn to dance like that!! Click below for two short videos of Santeria dance.

Santeria Dance

Santeria dance   

Santeria dancers

Future Santeria band member

Another favorite tour I signed up for was Cigar Passion  led by Luis, an educational and fantastic experience.  Luis has worked for more than 10 years in Havana’s cigar factories and is a wealth of knowledge.  He explains everything from working in a factory to the different terriors of tobacco, rolling techniques, really anything you might want to know!  Meeting at a cigar lounge, set outdoors under the cool breeze of fans and swaying palm trees, 8 guests were a perfect number for this gathering.  A newscaster from San Francisco, his college age son and a friend, the ambassador to Belgium, a photographer, and a retired CFO of an oil company made for engaging conversation between sipping rum, nibbling on tapas and of course puffing on a Cubano.  I highly recommend this tour as it is all about Havana, rum and cigars!  Luis also freely talks about being Cuban and what it means to him.

Luis host of Cigar Passion Havana and yours truly

Tapas served during Cigar Passion

Lemonade goes nicely with a Cubano too!

American tourists to Cuba should be sure to refrain from dining in government owned restaurants but instead look for locally owned paladars.  I was told that La Guarida was not to be missed and so made a reservation for the first night in Havana.  Walking into the building that houses La Guarida could easily mislead one from a lovely restaurant.  Situated in one of the crumbling buildings it remains beautiful regardless of the chipped paint, headless statue and well worn stairs leading to fine dining.  La Guarida offers a cozy atmosphere with fine linen table cloths, German cutlery, candles, Cuban music and soft lighting.

Another delightful paladar a few steps from the apartment was El Rum Rum a small cafe with live music provided by local students from the University.  Rum Rum, Cuban slang for gossip is on one of Havana’s oldest streets and a block away from La Bodeguita del Medio one of Hemingway’s haunts.  The food is an eclectic mix of traditional Cuban selections with a focus on seafood, an essential component of the Cuban diet.  El Rum Rum also offers a great wine list with selections from Spain, France, Italy, Chile and Australia as well as Milmanda Chardonay, from Bodegas Torres, a leader on many Cuban wine lists.

Of course there is Hotel Nacional, the Malecon, beautiful  cathedrals, many plazas, parks and quiet streets in which to get lost.  Havana has more to offer than I can even begin to cover.  I leave you with a few more photos of this captivating city to enjoy!

Hotel Nacional

Havana

Havana Refrigeration

Havana

Miramar Pools on the sea

Havana

For the best Cuban Taxi – service provided by Rutas de Taxis – https://www.facebook.com/groups/542106593278104/